Li was one of the last apprentices under the tutelage of Hong Kong teppanyaki master Fung Kong-hei, who is credited with introducing the local dining elite to the prestigious Japanese speciality in the 1960s and ‘70s. Li thrives in this rarefied dining atmosphere, fuelled by the interaction between chef and customer. “It’s an opportunity for pure showmanship, a stage upon which to perform,” he says. “I love seeing diners’ reactions. I’m able to tell by their body language whether they like my cooking. It’s a very rewarding feeling knowing people are enjoying their meal.”